14th April 2018 - The Elan Valley walk with overnight bothy stay - Part 2

Last week we had just arrived at Lluest Cwmbatch bothy, see here if you have no idea what I’m talking about. The bothy looked idyllic from the outside. Set on the edge of the reservoir with a babbling brook next to it. Going inside however revealed the true horror of what we were entering in to. Every surface inside had a beer can or wine bottle on it. It was clear our friends waving on the hill were in full party mode and were here to stay. To make matters worse, they had three friends on their way too.

A drink of wine in the setting sun to celebrate our arrival.

The bothy had three wooden benches to sleep on. We claimed one and left the 24 hour party people to fight over the other two. We couldn’t really take many pictures of the inside of the bothy as it was quite dark already and also it was an absolute tip. We had a quick chat with the soberest of the party who gave us a bit of their wine, which was one thing at least. Then we decided to try and get our heads down. The benches are not comfortable. The party people had lit some candles so it was fairly light inside. Then, to add to the chaos, three more people turned up to stay the night. Chuck decided that the party was too much for him and climbed up onto the bench to sleep with his Mummy and Daddy. 35kg of German Shepherd in between us left very little room.

A much gloomier day awaited us when we got up the next morning.

At around 3am the party finally died down. Around 6am the light started pouring through the window. We decided to carry out our morning admin outside as it was still quite dark in the bothy. After a nice breakfast and some mocha pot coffee brewed up on a camping stove we headed out back towards Rhayader. The weather was markedly different to the previous day. It was cold and damp and soon started to rain. There was no path and the only way was through a hilltop bog on a compass bearing, so make sure you can use a compass. We eventually got back to a reasonable track to follow. Again, there were sheep dotted about so Chuck needed to be on a lead. He was in one of those boisterous moods from lack of sleep.

After three hours sleep, filter coffee was a godsend.

After crossing the main road, the path climbed up again before dropping steeply down into Rhayader. There really isn’t much to report as the weather was so bad. There was very little to see. I’m sure it would have been very pretty in the sunshine. We returned to the car which was thankfully in one piece. We looked around Rhayader for coffee. The only place open this early on a Sunday is the Co-op, which has a Costa machine which is quite decent.

Smiles all round despite the weather and lack of sleep.

We were tired but had a feeling of immense accomplishment. We went into the bothy with an open mind. The party people had as much right to be there as we did so I didn’t feel it right to kick off with them as I normally would. That is the beauty of a bothy. You have no idea what you are going to get. We have decided we would definitely like to stay in another one but next time, one that’s further from a road, to prevent party people and also probably not on a Saturday night, also to mitigate against party people.

14th April 2018 - The Elan Valley walk with overnight bothy stay - Part 1

Another mini overnight adventure for you this week and next. Through some friends we discovered the existence of Bothys. These are decrepit or derelict buildings which have been rendered habitable by the Mountain Bothys Association. They are usually free to stay in and have no electric, heating or running water. They also have no booking system and operate on a first come first serve basis, more on which later. More information can be found here: Mountain Bothys Association. This week’s post will focus on the walk to the Bothy and next week will be about the Bothy and the route back, which was much shorter. The Bothy we were aiming for was Lluest Cwmbatch overlooking the beautiful Cronfa Ddwr Craig Goch reservoir. As you probably guessed from the lack of vowels, it’s in Wales. The Elan Valley to be precise.

Raring and ready to go.

We parked up in the village of Rhayader in a layby. It’s free and easy to find but can be busy as it is right at the start of the Number 8 cycle route to Aberystwyth. We locked the car and waved goodbye to it for 24 hours. The weather had promised to be cold and miserable however we noticed it was quite mild as soon as we got out of the car. The way was easy going along the cycle path but the view made clear how hilly and arduous this would be. Although we weren’t camping per se, there was no bedding and no food or water replens, so we were carrying absolutely everything we might need. Rhayader was the only civilisation for miles around and we were going to be at least two hours from it at most points.

The rickety bridge. Chuck refused to cross it.

The first hour or so was along tracks and small roads. This ended as we got to the Wye River. A river we know well but had not crossed this far up stream. There was a fantastic rickety suspension bridge across that wobbled like crazy. Chuck flatly refused to cross it and went through the river. This was probably good as it was starting to get really warm now. Something we hadn’t planned on.

Our first glimpse of the reservoirs.

The next stage was up onto the moor land. This was a very steep climb but offered some cracking views back across where we had walked. Up on top of the moor were some cows who looked heavily pregnant. We thought one of them might actually be about to give birth. She was definitely in some discomfort. We waited around for a little while but nothing really happened so we continued.

The small church next to the dam.

We dropped down through a small farm into a valley. Then it was back up onto the moorland. Sadly, for Chuck there were sheep everywhere, so he was on the lead a lot here. The was however lots of streams for him to cool down in. Despite being quite close to the reservoir we couldn’t really see much as we were behind a forest. As the forest gives way to the farmland you do get an impressive view across the most southerly of the four connected reservoirs. We crossed the river at its southern tip. The only way here was along the road.

Not sure if this is a natural gap or cleaved out for the path.

The road proved to be quite busy so we headed upwards again into the woods. This afforded a good view over where we had walked on the other side of the reservoir. A sharp path out of the woods brought us out to Garreg Ddu Dam, a very impressive structure and a crossing point for the reservoir. We still had a long way to go but we decided to take the slightly more scenic western route around Garreg Ddu Reservoir. The path runs along the waters edge for the most part and this allowed Chuck to cool off as it really was sweltering by now. The path does get slightly confusing at one point and doesn’t really match the map. Top tip, head north west when you see the information board and you’ll pick up the footpath markers.

An island in the reservoir.

The next place of interest is the Pen Y Garreg Dam. Despite the map not showing one there is a footpath straight up the hill here, which saves you having to go half a mile back down the road. Then it’s back on nice even flat cycle path all the way to the final dam. Be aware, there are sheep hiding in the trees. We only just managed to stop Chuck chasing them as they caught us by surprise. The Craig Goch Dam is the final one on the journey and is the most impressive. There are lots of cars parked here. I think people come here for picnics as the views are gorgeous.

Craig Goch. The most impressive of all the dams.

Entering our final reservoir valley, I was hoping to see the bothy. Sadly, it was still quite tucked away. But what made up for it was the view. It was one of the most spectacular vistas I have ever seen. The stillness of the water made it feel like you were inside a painting. Nothing moved. No trees to sway. No grass to move. Total tranquillity. There are no footpaths leading to the bothy but there were some obvious tracks. They cross some craggy re-entrant streams and our tired legs struggled to climb the rocks with the weight of our packs.

The stunning tranquility and beauty of Lluest Cwmbatch.

We were now within spitting distance of the bothy but it was tucked deep in a re-entrant and we didn’t see it until we were right on top of it. There were three people sitting on the hill above the bothy who waved to us as we went down. Would we have some company for the night? At this point we didn’t really care. We had walked nearly 18 miles and had been constantly walking for 8 hours. All three of us were ready to eat something and then just get our heads down. But would this actually happen? Find out next week.

Much excitement at finally arriving.

3rd February 2018 - Sudbrook and Portskewett

After last week’s ‘walk turned into pub review’ blog, we return with a real walk. A rather lovely one too. As mentioned last week I wanted to get maximum use of the small section of map that I had paid for. So, this week we walked around Sudbrook and Portskewett. This is the Welsh side of the Severn Estuary between the two motorway bridges. Don’t worry, it’s nicer than it sounds.

The new Severn Bridge.

We parked up next to the level-crossing through Caldicot industrial estate. This is quite a common dog walking spot. Be careful though. The locals don’t seem to like picking up after their dogs. Watch your step. The path follows the water northwards up to Sudbrook. The weather was a bit grey but the vista was still fairly nice. Avonmouth industrial estate is clearly visible across the water.  

VICTORY!

Sudbrook itself has a few oddities and follies of interest despite its small size. There is the small ruined Trinity Presbyterian church which is sadly fenced off. Also of interest is the pumping station. This was built in Victorian times to pump water out of the Severn Tunnel. Amazingly it’s still going today. Hopefully it’s had a few upgrades since then. There are plenty of information boards dotted about which amazingly haven’t been vandalised.

Enjoying a quick break.

The next stop is Black Rock Picnic Site. This is a great spot to view the estuary from. Both bridges are clearly visible and there are plenty of information boards about the area. My favourite was the board describing the local fishermen who go out into the mud and shallow waters at low tide to collect their catch. You really do need some local knowledge to even think about venturing out into the estuary. Its waters are lethal.  

Checking out the local information.

The path continues up to next bridge but as we live right next to it we decided to head back through the fields to Portskewett. Not much to see here so we followed the path back over the railway lines into some more fields. There is another small ruined building here but not much else to see. This is a great shorter walk. Although we did find ourselves stopping a lot to look at things of interest. So, it’s not far distance wise but it still ended up taking over three hours. It probably would have been over four if we’d read all the information in Sudbrook. I highly recommended walk for history and geology buffs.

A rare chance to check out the world underneath you.

10th February 2018 - The Rose Inn Redwick

Apologies for the absence of several weeks but holiday and injury has kept us from you (a dislocated shoulder since you ask). Today’s walk started out as a walking blog but has now become a pub review due to the honking state of the weather. There is a small area of Severn Estuary on the Welsh side which requires you to buy the map which shows almost entirely the English side on the south, which is annoying as I had to buy a map of somewhere else to get a tiny bit of where I am. Anyway, since begrudgingly forking out for this map we have been making maximum use of it. Today we planned to walk the section from near Summerleaze to Goldcliff. However, the aforementioned weather made other plans. 

Lamb shank. Drool.

We parked at the end of a narrow lane that leads to a sewage treatment plant just past Pill Farm. There are usually several cars parked here so arrive early, unless of course the weather is awful. We followed the track down to the water and scrambled up onto the bank. We were hit in the face with a howling wind blowing freezing rain straight at us, so back down again we went. Out of the wind it was just dreary rather than completely miserable. Why we didn’t bring waterproof trousers I’ll never know. 

Every pub should be decorated like this. 

We decided to cut it short at Redcliff where The Rose Inn is situated. This is a great old fashioned pub. No brewery association as far as I could tell. The walls were covered in various brass objects like pubs used to be. It had a large car park and despite being in the middle of nowhere it seemed quite popular. Obviously, Chuck was made to feel very welcome and was fussed over quite a lot. The drinks selection was pretty good. Prices were reasonable too. But they cater to the ale drinker rather than the connoisseur spirit drinker. 

Specials board. And the lamb shank was very special.

After a few we decided time was cracking on and dinner wasn’t going to cook itself. So we decided to stay and eat in the pub. The food was home-cooked fayre of a good standard. It wasn’t going to win any Michelin stars but that isn’t the idea here. It was tasty, well cooked and there was plenty of it for the price. The menu was extensive and there was a specials board too, so plenty of choice. 

Can we go yet? Chuck getting excited over the pub stop as usual.

When we saw a gap in the rain we set off back for the car along the road. It hadn’t been much of a walk but at least we got out for a bit. We still did 90 odd minutes in the wet stuff, so not a bad effort. Anyway, The Rose Inn, Redcliff is highly recommended for both food and drink. I’d certainly head back there.  

28th January 2018 - Brockweir and The Commons

Today is a walk on a bit of the map I seem to have missed. I thought we had covered all the Wye Valley between Chepstow and Monmouth but there is a small community of houses between St Briavels and Llandogo tucked away in the trees. As there were lots of tracks and footpaths on the map I thought we could check it out. We parked up in the Old Station at Tintern. This has a café in an old railway carriage and a playground for kids. As it was a cold day in January I was surprised to see quite few people there. Parking was £1 for three hours or £3.50 for a day. Luckily I still had an old pound in the coin in the car that I’d been trying to get rid of. It slipped into the machine a treat.

You won't get very far in this carriage but you can get a coffee in summer.

We set off through the park towards Brockweir. After a little play on the adventure playground we followed the track along the river. There are a few metal sculptures along this track to add interest. My favourite is the dog that’s done a metal poo. The bridge at Brockweir is a lovely old fashioned Iron Bridge of the flat kind. The river was absolutely racing along today so Chuck was not allowed in, otherwise he’d have been back in Chepstow before we knew it.

The old signal box. There's a tut shop in there now selling things you don't need.

The path heads up onto a small road which leads to the community in the hills. It looks like a wonderful place to live. Very cut off and peaceful. One road in and out. At the end of the road the footpath climbed steeply along a track between two ancient looking dry stone walls. It’s all very Lord of the Rings. This leads up to more narrow lanes and more climbing. The first 90 minutes was all up hill.

Brooding clouds over Brockweir. We did however manage to stay dry.

There are a lot of small farms and small holdings up here. Everyone seems to have a few sheep. There’s plenty of horses too. A lot of the roads are linked by Restricted Byways which I have talked about before. The byways up here were on the whole reasonably surfaced. A few were muddy but we stayed mostly clean on the whole walk.

This walk is more hilly than it looks and it looks hilly.

As we came out on the northern crest as the river peels east the view appeared across the whole of the northern Wye Valley. It was a clear day and the view was breath taking. Definitely worth the climb. The rest of the walk was mostly small roads which were devoid of traffic. As we got down the hill to Brockweir though the road got a bit busier. There is a pub in Brockweir but we carried on past as it's January and we're saving money. We have been in before and it is very nice but I believe it is under new management now. 

An obstruction in the road.

Overall a very nice walk and very hilly. It shows it’s always worth checking you haven’t quite covered every inch of the map. There are some great views, especially at this time of year when the trees are bare. There are so many interlocking paths up here you could walk around for several weeks and not go the same way twice. It's great little place to get lost in.

9th December 2017 - Sugar Loaf Snow Walk

Obviously, today’s post is very seasonal as you can see from the pictures but I’ve got a bit behind. That’s no reason not to post it though, so enjoy our snow walk up Sugar Loaf. Having lived in Devon for the previous three years we hadn’t seen much snow. Chuck had only ever seen one very light dusting in his whole life so going on a deep snow hunt seemed a must. Although we’d been up Sugar Loaf previously we hadn’t done it in the snow. So off we went.

We didn't have to get that high before hitting the white stuff.

We parked near to the cricket ground in the back streets. A small alley takes you through to a narrow road which goes all the way up to the top car park. The road down here was very icy and Chuck was enjoying sliding about all over the place. We stayed on the road all the way up to the car park, by which time there was enough snow that people were already building snowmen.

Our eventual destination.

Snowballs gave Chuck an unlimited number of things to chase after. So, snowballs were soon flying in every direction with a dog in hot pursuit. Sugar Loaf is a concave slope which means it gets steeper the closer you get to the top. It’s quite rocky around the peak and the snow made it quite difficult to walk on. Be very careful as it is quite easy to sprain an ankle in a snow filled gap between rocks.

Sugar Loaf's residents.

The view from the top was magnificent with an obvious dividing line in snow altitude and the lower greenery. It was also very cold so we didn’t hang about. Going down was also quite a tester as the rocks were very slippy where people had compressed the snow. We went back down through the woods and emerged again where we had parked. It was still quite early however so we decided to head for the pub.

Going down can be treacherous. Take your time.

Our pub of choice in Abergavenny is The Hen and Chickens. It has a good drinks selection and does some nice bar snacks too. So, after a drink and some cheesy chips we headed back to the car. Our cheeks were rosy, from the cold not the drink, and we’d walked a long way. Gaining altitude is a great way of seeing some snow. But remember, it gets much colder the higher you climb. Work off -1⁰c for every 100m you climb. Take more clothing than you think you’ll need and be aware even if you’ve been somewhere before, it can look very different in the snow. Enjoy the snow, but respect it too and stay safe.

Why would you accuse me of dipping my nose in the snow?

12th November 2017 - Crickhowell and Pen Cerrig-calch

Today’s walk is a reminder to always respect the weather in the hills. Despite setting off in beaming sunshine we had the joy of experiencing sideways snow less than an hour later. Our goal today was the top of Pen Cerrig-calch a 701m high peak rising above Crickhowell in the Brecon Beacons. The weather looked great and we were busy for the next few weekends so it seemed like an ideal opportunity to get possibly our last hill walk of the year. Also on cold clear days the views are especially good due to the low pressure. It would be beautiful up there we thought.

The view over Crickhowell, the sun trying to break through.

We parked in a layby on the A40 which is just past the Shell garage. It’s free and there is enough space for three cars so get here early to avoid disappointment. We took the track up towards Darren, an oddly named rocky outcrop. The path goes through a farm but the footpath is well marked all the way through their land. There are also dog friendly styles. Top marks to this farmer, a model of how it should be done.

The ascent was through some lovely old dry stone wall.

The path is steep but is well paved on the farmland. Once you get on the top however the path is steep and muddy making it quite tricky to walk on. It is startlingly pretty up here though. As we came around to the more north facing slopes it became clear that we had been shielded from the bitterly cold northern wind up until this point. It was easily minus temperatures with the wind chill.

Taking the rough with smooth. A great view of the floor as the snow came in sideways.

We decided to press on however as we had come this far. This unfortunately is how a lot of accidents and walking incidents happen and I really should know better. That ‘well we may as well do it now’ mentality can get you in trouble. If you are in doubt whether or not you have the correct kit for the weather or you have the skills to navigate with a lack of visibility you should probably turn around and wait to conquer your walk another day. Better to be safe than sorry.

A few minutes later it was like a different day, apart from the wind just out of shot.

I weighed up that it was actually shorter to carry on to the top and that the navigation was within my abilities. As we kept going a large grey cloud appeared on the peak to the north. This turned out to be a lovely snowy sleet mixture which plunged the temperature further. Thankfully it didn’t last too long but in hindsight we did not have enough warm kit to deal with this had it been sustained. Thankfully it was reasonably clear by the time we reached the top but still bitterly cold so we didn’t hang about. Be aware there are lots of sheep wandering about so if your dog likes to chase make sure it’s on a lead.

Dazzling.

Once we started to descend and got out of the wind it was a much more pleasant walk. The path continues down to Table Mountain which has an Iron Age fort on top called Crug Hywel. Again there are some cracking views up here and a lot of people seemed to be making a walk up here and it would be a good walk in itself. We took in some views and set off down towards Crickhowell. The path follows a stream all the way down. It’s a really scenic path in a little leafy valley.

Walking down to the hill fort.

Just before Crickhowell we passed through a field which had two donkeys in it. They were fascinated with Chuck and seemed to really want to play with him. Chuck for his part was a touch intimidated and wanted none of it sadly. The donkeys were very friendly though. This walk was a great reminder that no matter how experienced you are that you should always plan for the worst. The most innocuous weather can take a turn for the worse up in the hills where you can lose a degree centigrade for every hundred metres climbed. Every year hundreds of people get into difficulty and have to be rescued because they were unprepared. Don’t be one of them. 

A ford on the way back down.