14th April 2018 - The Elan Valley walk with overnight bothy stay - Part 2

Last week we had just arrived at Lluest Cwmbatch bothy, see here if you have no idea what I’m talking about. The bothy looked idyllic from the outside. Set on the edge of the reservoir with a babbling brook next to it. Going inside however revealed the true horror of what we were entering in to. Every surface inside had a beer can or wine bottle on it. It was clear our friends waving on the hill were in full party mode and were here to stay. To make matters worse, they had three friends on their way too.

A drink of wine in the setting sun to celebrate our arrival.

The bothy had three wooden benches to sleep on. We claimed one and left the 24 hour party people to fight over the other two. We couldn’t really take many pictures of the inside of the bothy as it was quite dark already and also it was an absolute tip. We had a quick chat with the soberest of the party who gave us a bit of their wine, which was one thing at least. Then we decided to try and get our heads down. The benches are not comfortable. The party people had lit some candles so it was fairly light inside. Then, to add to the chaos, three more people turned up to stay the night. Chuck decided that the party was too much for him and climbed up onto the bench to sleep with his Mummy and Daddy. 35kg of German Shepherd in between us left very little room.

A much gloomier day awaited us when we got up the next morning.

At around 3am the party finally died down. Around 6am the light started pouring through the window. We decided to carry out our morning admin outside as it was still quite dark in the bothy. After a nice breakfast and some mocha pot coffee brewed up on a camping stove we headed out back towards Rhayader. The weather was markedly different to the previous day. It was cold and damp and soon started to rain. There was no path and the only way was through a hilltop bog on a compass bearing, so make sure you can use a compass. We eventually got back to a reasonable track to follow. Again, there were sheep dotted about so Chuck needed to be on a lead. He was in one of those boisterous moods from lack of sleep.

After three hours sleep, filter coffee was a godsend.

After crossing the main road, the path climbed up again before dropping steeply down into Rhayader. There really isn’t much to report as the weather was so bad. There was very little to see. I’m sure it would have been very pretty in the sunshine. We returned to the car which was thankfully in one piece. We looked around Rhayader for coffee. The only place open this early on a Sunday is the Co-op, which has a Costa machine which is quite decent.

Smiles all round despite the weather and lack of sleep.

We were tired but had a feeling of immense accomplishment. We went into the bothy with an open mind. The party people had as much right to be there as we did so I didn’t feel it right to kick off with them as I normally would. That is the beauty of a bothy. You have no idea what you are going to get. We have decided we would definitely like to stay in another one but next time, one that’s further from a road, to prevent party people and also probably not on a Saturday night, also to mitigate against party people.

14th April 2018 - The Elan Valley walk with overnight bothy stay - Part 1

Another mini overnight adventure for you this week and next. Through some friends we discovered the existence of Bothys. These are decrepit or derelict buildings which have been rendered habitable by the Mountain Bothys Association. They are usually free to stay in and have no electric, heating or running water. They also have no booking system and operate on a first come first serve basis, more on which later. More information can be found here: Mountain Bothys Association. This week’s post will focus on the walk to the Bothy and next week will be about the Bothy and the route back, which was much shorter. The Bothy we were aiming for was Lluest Cwmbatch overlooking the beautiful Cronfa Ddwr Craig Goch reservoir. As you probably guessed from the lack of vowels, it’s in Wales. The Elan Valley to be precise.

Raring and ready to go.

We parked up in the village of Rhayader in a layby. It’s free and easy to find but can be busy as it is right at the start of the Number 8 cycle route to Aberystwyth. We locked the car and waved goodbye to it for 24 hours. The weather had promised to be cold and miserable however we noticed it was quite mild as soon as we got out of the car. The way was easy going along the cycle path but the view made clear how hilly and arduous this would be. Although we weren’t camping per se, there was no bedding and no food or water replens, so we were carrying absolutely everything we might need. Rhayader was the only civilisation for miles around and we were going to be at least two hours from it at most points.

The rickety bridge. Chuck refused to cross it.

The first hour or so was along tracks and small roads. This ended as we got to the Wye River. A river we know well but had not crossed this far up stream. There was a fantastic rickety suspension bridge across that wobbled like crazy. Chuck flatly refused to cross it and went through the river. This was probably good as it was starting to get really warm now. Something we hadn’t planned on.

Our first glimpse of the reservoirs.

The next stage was up onto the moor land. This was a very steep climb but offered some cracking views back across where we had walked. Up on top of the moor were some cows who looked heavily pregnant. We thought one of them might actually be about to give birth. She was definitely in some discomfort. We waited around for a little while but nothing really happened so we continued.

The small church next to the dam.

We dropped down through a small farm into a valley. Then it was back up onto the moorland. Sadly, for Chuck there were sheep everywhere, so he was on the lead a lot here. The was however lots of streams for him to cool down in. Despite being quite close to the reservoir we couldn’t really see much as we were behind a forest. As the forest gives way to the farmland you do get an impressive view across the most southerly of the four connected reservoirs. We crossed the river at its southern tip. The only way here was along the road.

Not sure if this is a natural gap or cleaved out for the path.

The road proved to be quite busy so we headed upwards again into the woods. This afforded a good view over where we had walked on the other side of the reservoir. A sharp path out of the woods brought us out to Garreg Ddu Dam, a very impressive structure and a crossing point for the reservoir. We still had a long way to go but we decided to take the slightly more scenic western route around Garreg Ddu Reservoir. The path runs along the waters edge for the most part and this allowed Chuck to cool off as it really was sweltering by now. The path does get slightly confusing at one point and doesn’t really match the map. Top tip, head north west when you see the information board and you’ll pick up the footpath markers.

An island in the reservoir.

The next place of interest is the Pen Y Garreg Dam. Despite the map not showing one there is a footpath straight up the hill here, which saves you having to go half a mile back down the road. Then it’s back on nice even flat cycle path all the way to the final dam. Be aware, there are sheep hiding in the trees. We only just managed to stop Chuck chasing them as they caught us by surprise. The Craig Goch Dam is the final one on the journey and is the most impressive. There are lots of cars parked here. I think people come here for picnics as the views are gorgeous.

Craig Goch. The most impressive of all the dams.

Entering our final reservoir valley, I was hoping to see the bothy. Sadly, it was still quite tucked away. But what made up for it was the view. It was one of the most spectacular vistas I have ever seen. The stillness of the water made it feel like you were inside a painting. Nothing moved. No trees to sway. No grass to move. Total tranquillity. There are no footpaths leading to the bothy but there were some obvious tracks. They cross some craggy re-entrant streams and our tired legs struggled to climb the rocks with the weight of our packs.

The stunning tranquility and beauty of Lluest Cwmbatch.

We were now within spitting distance of the bothy but it was tucked deep in a re-entrant and we didn’t see it until we were right on top of it. There were three people sitting on the hill above the bothy who waved to us as we went down. Would we have some company for the night? At this point we didn’t really care. We had walked nearly 18 miles and had been constantly walking for 8 hours. All three of us were ready to eat something and then just get our heads down. But would this actually happen? Find out next week.

Much excitement at finally arriving.

23rd October 2017 Daily Blog from Porthcawl - Day 4

Day 4 of our travels today and the last one before we go home tomorrow. It didn’t quite go according to plan and sadly neither did the weather about which the Met Office lied. Having said that, it wasn’t a bad day overall. We started off from the National Trust car park in Rhossili. Top tip, take lots of change. A days parking requires £5 in coins. Who carries that around with them? As I didn’t have £5 in coins…sorry National Trust. We left hoping not to be clamped when we returned.

The views weren't long distance but they had a magical quality.

We set off across Rhossili Down. We took the lower path as visibility was poor and as it was meant to clear up later we thought we could get the views on the way back. There were a few sheep dotted about here and there so Chuck was on the lead for a lot of the time. It was very grey and damp but every now and again we caught a glimpse of the coastline. The beach down below us was gigantic and after walking for nearly an hour we were just half way along it.

The rocks at Llangennith Burrows. Make sure you're off before high tide.

We passed through Hillend Caravan Park down onto the beach. Chuck was finally free and super excited. He spent the next half an hour chasing seagulls having the time of his life splashing in the sea. Just be aware that the water here can be dangerous. Chuck is scared of the waves however and generally just likes splashing around in the shallows. At the end of the beach is large round rock formation. We didn’t go onto it as we were unsure if the tide was coming in or going out. It looked as though you could easily become stranded on there.

A giant jellyfish washed ashore. Sadly we had no ice cream.

The path rose up onto some cliffs which were very wild and jagged. The rough weather made for a powerful vista with the waves crashing against the cliff. It was odd as the dunes from the beach seemed to reach up to the cliff edge but we hadn’t really climbed much from the beach. It was as if the sea had dropped down to reveal the cliffs. Before long we had dropped down onto another beach.

Jaggedy cliffs at Broughton Burrows. Still raining.

Broughton Bay was again a huge beach. We stayed low so Chuck could stay off the lead instead of going up across the cliffs. However, the footpath back to the top was not obvious and I think the path we went up was not the footpath but just another path made by people getting off the beach. This confused the navigation somewhat and after about half an hour we ended up back where we would have initially come off the beach. Very frustrating. As we had lost so much time and the weather was refusing to clear up, we decided to cut it short.

Chuck doing a spot of beach combing.

We plotted the most direct route to our intended pub stop in Llangennith. This took us through a caravan site with lots of ‘Private Keep Out’ signs. All well and good but as I pointed out a few weeks ago, it is illegal to conceal or block a public footpath. As there were no directional aids we ended up on the far side of the caravan sight unable to find the correct route of the path. We found the footpath that the one we had lost lead to but getting to it involved jumping over a barbed wire fence. As this was the only option we clambered carefully over and returned to the path.

The footpath that wasn't a footpath. Either way it was steep and sandy.

It’s a real bug bear of mine when people try to conceal a Public Footpath across their land. If they just put a couple of arrows we’d have been through in no time. As it was we ended up climbing over their fences and probably going into places they really didn’t want us to go. It would be better for both parties if they directed instead of obstructed. The alternative route was about two miles further. I’m sorry but a Public Footpath is a Right of Way and we will find a way through. Rant over.

Come on Mummy and Daddy. Nearly at the pub.

We arrived at the King’s Head in LLangennith quite soaked and annoyed at our scrambling through bushes and barbed wire. However the welcome we received made up for it. The drink selection is fantastic. It’s not cheap but they have an incredible array of whisky and gin. I tried three different Whiskies, all very different and we had a bowl of rather delicious chips. The final part of the journey was back across Rhossili Down. The promised break in the weather never materialised so we took the low path again.

The King's Arms at Llangennith. A spirit drinkers paradise.

We got back to our car and fortunately it wasn’t clamped. Again, sorry National Trust, put a card reader in your brand new shiny parking meters and I’d have paid. You can’t get blood out of a stone. So there you go. Not quite what we planned but a nice day nonetheless. Tomorrow we’re off back home but we’d like to maybe get a small walk in or visit something depending on the weather. Hopefully it’s something worth writing about. I’m sure it will be. See you tomorrow. 

22nd October 2017 Daily Blog from Porthcawl - Day 3

The view across Onwich Bay fron Penrice.

Welcome to Day 3 of our holiday on the South Wales coast. Our destination for today was the Gower Peninsula just west of Swansea. This Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) features cliffs, hills and sandy beaches. Today we covered all three. We set out from Millwood car park, which is free, just north of Oxwich. It’s in a deep valley so there was an initial climb to warm us up, which was good as it was quite cold despite the improvement in the weather. We skirted around Oxwich village and headed straight for the castle. We didn’t go in but you can see the majority of it from the footpath and then read the history on Wikipedia.

The walk across the fields to Onwich Castle.

The next leg of the journey was around Oxwich point. This affords magnificent views of the whole coastline and probably the Devon coastline too on a clear day. There were unfortunately some rather angry cows on top but we fought our way through and the view from the cliffs was worth the risk to life. The path then drops right down to just 50ft or so from the sea before climbing back up through some woods and then back down onto the beach.

Walking down to Onwich Point after surviving a cow attack.

Oxwich beach is one of those beaches that you can walk along for half an hour without seeming to get anywhere. Chuck didn’t mind however as he was busy making friends with Cody the Malamute. Much more fun was had chasing seagulls as well. The beach was littered with large shellfish, some of which were still very much alive. However they were being massacred by the seagulls and the shellfish weren’t very good at fighting back as they were mostly made of slime.

Chuck has spotted the water already.

There is a stream that runs down the beach to the sea about half way along. There was a bridge and everyone seemed to be heading for it. Although the stream didn’t look big we had visions of sinking into quicksand and thought better of jumping it. The path let into a hinterland of scrub grass and then up a steep hill through some woods following the Welsh Costal Path. We ditched the costal path here to head towards Cefn Bryn, a giant ridgeline feature that runs for several miles across the Gower.

The ponies resident on top of Cefn Bryn.

Despite the wind and now occasional rain, it was definitely the right choice. The views offered were of the entire peninsular and further towards Llanelli and the Llanrhidian Sands. We could see our entire walk. Populating the top were wild ponies who mostly seemed quite oblivious to us being there, although one or two followed us for a little while. After being spoiled by the views for nearly an hour we dropped down into Reynoldston with view of going into the pub there. A sign on the door that said ‘No Dogs Allowed’ put paid to that. We could have sat outside but such blatant racism does not garner our custom.

Chuck checking out how far home is.

We followed the main road back down to Little Reynoldston and down a track into Millwood. We didn’t really explore Millwood as we’d been out a while and wanted to get back for tea but it looked like there was some interesting stuff there. Thankfully today the winds had dropped so were able to get home without any difficulty. Whilst we didn’t stop in Swansea I can report it looks rather nice when the sun is out. All in all a much better day than yesterday. This is a great walk for such a wide and varied rosta of environments. Not sure what we’re doing tomorrow yet but make sure you come back to find out. See you then.

21st October 2017 Daily Blog from Porthcawl - Day 2

Welcome back to the South Wales coast around Porthcawl. Today’s plan was to go to Kenfig Nature Reserve to quickly wear Chuck out and then head to Swansea. Things didn’t quite go according to plan. We knew it was going to be a poor weather day as the brilliantly named Storm Brian was closing in. The rain never really came but the wind definitely had designs to ruin our own plans.

Comedy wind inflated clothing.

Kenfig nature reserve is a landscape of dunes and grass. It’s very much like The Braunton Burrows from our old stomping ground North Devon. Chuck got incredibly excited as the Burrows was his favourite place to go. He howled with delight, singing the song of his people as he ran up and down the path, despite the gale force winds and rain.

Chuck was blown away by the view.

The path passed a lake which obviously Chuck spotted from about half a mile away. He was in in no time. Thankfully the terrific winds soon dried him out. The walk continued across dunes of increasing size. The higher we got, the windier it was. As we approached the shore a gap in the sea bank was funnelling the winds to a very high speed. It was almost impossible to look out over the sea. The waves were crashing with some vigour. Being out in this weather gives a tremendous sense of the kinetic power of nature. The wind howling past your ears. You really feel it. Dressed accordingly I could happily stay out there all day.

A bit of comedic light relief from the weather.

We followed the Wales Costal Path towards the steel works at Port Talbot. The track passes some old railway sidings here. Top tip, route at the correct path, don’t just follow the service road. We ended up having to squeeze under a barbed wire fence to get back on our track. Just before you get to the M5 are the ruins of Kenfig Castle. And very ruinous they are. Not that much to make out really but an interesting 5 minutes can be had looking around if the weather is nice, or 30 seconds if not.

The kings of the castle. Odd cactus shaped plant photo-bombing. 

We made a beeline for a pub marked on the map between Kenfig village and Maudlam. When we got there we found The Prince of Wales. Dogs were only allowed in the snug but this was no problem. It was a constant coming and going of canine fun. The highlight was a highly timid Newfoundland who had to be dragged past Chuck. It was so sweet to see such a big dog that was so meek. Just shows you can’t judge a book by its cover.

Chuck educating himself on the local wildlife.

We headed back down the road to the car. Our quick walk had turned into over three hours. But we aren’t big fans of cities usually so we wouldn’t need long in Swansea. Good job as we never got there. We ended up stuck on the M4 for 90 minutes and turning around and coming back to Porthcawl. The high winds had shut the bridge over The Neath River. We’re intending on going to The Gower past Swansea tomorrow so hopefully it has reopened. Tomorrow’s post will very much depend on the bridge being open. Make sure you come back tomorrow to see how we get on.

Looking a tad windswept in The Prince of Wales.

20th October 2017 Daily Blog from Porthcawl - Day 1

A rocky coastline with a rugged hinterland.

After the success of blogging on location from our little get away to Cornwall last year we thought we should do the same again this year. We’ve taken a few days staying in an AirBnB in Porthcawl South Wales. We’ve wanted to go to Swansea for some time but looking on AirBnB website we discovered it was half the price in Porthcawl and as most our time will be spent walking the surrounding area it made sense. We are proper AirBnB virgins but we would like to start our own AirBnB so we thought it made sense to stay in one first before just letting out our own. As this is ‘live’ blogging each day we can let you know how things are progressing.

The weather was initially 'bracing' to put it kindly.

We only live about 90 minutes away but it’s a bit too far to come for a day so it made sense to stay. We set off around 1100 and didn’t really hit too much in the way of traffic. Top tip for supplies, there is only a small Co-Op in Porthcawl so stop in Bridgend on your way in if you’re coming from the east, which 98.372% of you will be. There is a Lidl, a Tesco and a Pets At Home all right next to each other. Saves lugging lots of food from home.

The sea wall with a brooding sky behind it.

The place we’re staying in is great. Really nicely done and cosy. I’ll do a full review at the end of the week. I was warned by someone who lives nearby that Porthcawl is a dump but I think it’s actually quite charming. It is slightly run down in places, especially by the amusements but we came here to be outside, not playing 2p slot machines. The beaches are dog friendly at this time of year, October – April, so Chuck has been in the sea already.

This is just as the tide was beginning to turn.

There’s a great new bar and restaurant building by the sea wall, next to the lifeboat station. It’s quite posh but didn’t seem ridiculously expensive. I paid £7 for a double Jura and a soda water. The tide was coming in and the waves really start to crash against the rocks when it does. It has been a bracing day but I love that. The beaches are rocky and the hinterland is wild and moor like. We walked all the way out up to the Royal Porthcawl golf club with a not so fetching view of Port Talbot steel works. But it was far away enough not to spoil the view. Devon and Somerset could made out across the Severn and The Mumbles bay next to Swansea was also visible.

The restaurant and bar next to the lifeboat station.

Porthcawl is so far proving to be a wonderful little place to come and stay. The weather for the next few days looks pretty terrible to be honest but we’ll do our best to make some mini adventures for you to enjoy reading about. Hopefully we can inspire you to make your own little weekend getaway. It only requires two days off work and is far better than a week in Los Del Thompson Package Holiday. So have a look along the coast for somewhere off the beaten path to stay and get booking. We’ll be back tomorrow, as long as we don’t get washed away.

The far end of Porthcawl. The dog walking area is just around the corner.